January 24, 2023 – Oahu, Hawaii

I woke up at 4:30 am and looked out the window.  O my word, I’ve never seen so many stars!  It was as though they were coming out of the sea.  Right down to the horizon.  “The heavens declare the glory of God, and the sky above proclaims his handiwork” (Psalms 19:1).  I tried to take a picture but the movement of the ship prevented a clear photo.  It’s ok, I will remember how spectacular it was.  Looking forward to one of the ‘star gazing’ events that they will hold on a clear night. 

Another beautiful sunrise as we approached land.  Land ho, it’s Oahu!  The morning light was hitting the mountains and showing a velvety green.  We could see Diamond Head and Honolulu (the state capital of Hawaii).  Oahu, know as ‘The Gathering Place’, is the 3rd largest of the Hawaiian Islands.   Kamehameha founded the kingdom of Hawaii in 1795.  Of course, there were previous kings, but when I think of Hawaii, I think of King Kamehameha.  The Iolani Palace is still standing and the only royal palace on American soil.

Oahu was apparently the first of the Hawaiian Islands sighted by the crew of the HMS Resolution on January 19, 1778, during Captain James Cook’s third Pacific expedition.  Bob and I laugh at how many places we’ve been and find out Captain Cook had been there (Alaska, Hawaii, Tahiti, Australia and New Zealand). He was the great map maker!  It’s believed he did more to fill the map of the world than any other explorer in history.  Once given the task to map New Foundland, Canada, it was so accurate that it was used into the 20th century.

So many times, Bob and I are looking out across the ocean and thinking, how brave were the early explorers and pilgrims in small ships crossing the big, big oceans.  And, how in the world did Captain Cook sail to so many places around the world!  Sadly, we learned that Captain Cook was killed in Hawaii in 1779.

As we were coming into dock, we stood on our balcony enjoying the view.  Suddenly, a sound you immediately recognize as a fighter overhead.  A distinctive, loud, sizzling sound.  I quickly grabbed my camera and got a couple of shots.  F-22 Raptors!  We saw 4 and then 4 more.  The 199th Fighter Squadron (199 FS) is a unit of the Hawaii Air National Guard 154th Wing located at Joint Base Pearl Harbor-Hickam, Honolulu.  It was exciting to see them.

We docked early, near the Aloha Tower. Without question, Pearl Harbor is our priority.  We took a bus over and entered the National Memorial.  Pearl Harbor is the only naval base in the United States to be designated a National Historic Landmark.  We looked out across the harbor and could see the USS Missouri and the USS Arizona almost nose to nose.  I remember from our visit in 2020, they call them the great bookmarks of history (gives me chills to see them again).  USS Arizona marks the start of WWII (December 7, 1941) and the USS Missouri represents the end (signing ceremony of Japan’s surrender on September 2, 1945).  We boarded the naval vessel and headed towards the USS Arizona.  The sky is blue and the breeze is strong making our beautiful American flag very visible from a distance.

As we approached, I could see one of the sailors sternly pointing to a group of people that were being loud and disrespectful.  As we disembarked, the sailor pulled the group aside and firmly talked to them.  All I can say is, thank you US Navy sailors for doing a good job. 

The beautiful, long white structure with 21 windows to symbolically represent a 21-gun salute or 21 Marines standing over the fallen.  We entered the memorial and again, the same feeling.  Our hearts ache as we walk forward and see the ship below knowing it’s the final resting place for 1,177 fathers, sons and husbands for almost 82 years.  As I looked over the railing, there it was, that one tiny drop of oil rising to the surface.  They call it ‘black tears’.  It hit the surface and dispersed quickly because of the breeze.  I snapped a quick picture and noticed later, a reflection of our flag in the lower corner.   As we walked to the far end of the memorial, you enter a large sanctuary and see a wall of marble that shows every name of all those souls entombed below.  A chilling reality to see the actual names.  “To The Memory Of The Gallant Men Here Entombed And Their Shipmates Who Gave Their Lives In Action On December 7, 1941 On The USS Arizona”. 

As you look around the harbor, you realize how many other ships that were sunk or damaged.  353 Imperial Japanese aircraft, in 2 waves, were launched from six aircraft carriers.  All eight US Navy battleships were damaged, with four sunk.  All but the USS Arizona were later raised and six were returned to service and went on to fight in the war.  A total of 2,403 Americans were killed and 1,178 others wounded.  As we left, you look back and can only imagine the horror that took place on that morning.  It’s interesting to listen to other visitors.  They speak of relatives that were there during the war and see the sadness in their faces.  History must not be forgotten or we are doomed to repeat it.

I’m including this again because it’s so appropriate.  Eleanor Roosevelt kept this poem in her wallet during WWII that said – “Dear Lord, Lest I continue my complacent way, help me to remember somehow out there, a man died for me today.  As long as there be war, I then must ask, am I worth dying for”.

We did not go over to the USS Missouri (‘The Mighty Mo’) this time.  Our tour continued to The National Cemetery of the Pacific located in the Punchbowl Crater in Honolulu.  Over 13,000 soldiers and sailors who died during World War II are laid to rest.  What a beautiful and peaceful setting.  Our guide took us back through the city and pointed out places of interest.  We arrived at the ship and came back to our stateroom and enjoyed some time on our balcony.  We were again lucky to see the F-22’s returning to Pearl Harbor.  What a sight.  

We had a local family and their students board the ship for our entertainment this evening.  I remember this Hawaiian woman and what a beautiful story she had.  Her great grandmother was a hula dancer for the royal court.  For the past two centuries, the cherished Hawaiian dance has moved from a sacred religious practice to a tourist attraction, along the way falling prey to cultural appropriation and near erasure.  Today the ancient Hawaiian tradition is being reclaimed and celebrated.  A folkloric school of hula presented a beautiful show tonight.  The Hawaiian music and graceful dance of these beautiful people was a true gift.  What a way to end the evening.  We said our Aloha’s and went out on deck to enjoy the sail away.  The night time glow of Honolulu was reflecting on the water.  I watched as it slowly faded away.

Aloha Oahu