April 10, 2023 – Rome, Italy

Roma!

We arrived in Civitavecchia early this morning.  This port has functioned as the primary seaport for several centuries.  We are happy to be here and excited that today’s tour is ‘Karen’s walking tour of Rome’ (you’re excited, right honey?)!  We took a bus from the port to the train station.  I booked us on an Express Train from Civitavecchia to St Peter’s Train Station in Rome.  No stops, just a 45 minute ride through the countryside along the Tyrrhenian Sea and missing all the traffic.  

We arrived in Rome and immediately walked from train station to St Peter’s Square.  Just as we remember it, a huge area of semicircular imposing colonnades crowned with sculptures of the saints that perfectly frame the entrance to the Basilica.  We knew we had limited time in Rome, so we decided not to spend it in a long line to enter St Peter’s. Another time. Of course, I understand why so many want to catch a glimpse of where St Peter was martyred and buried.  Last time we were here, we toured St Peter’s (including a climb to top of the dome), the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel.  It’s a very busy week for tourists so we’re going to walk and enjoy as many sites as possible.  Yesterday was Easter and as you can imagine, this square was packed with people awaiting the blessing from the Pope.  The beautiful Easter flowers are still on the steps of the basilica.  

We walked away from St Peter’s down a wide pedestrian street, taking a glimpse back every now and then.  We walked down to St Angelo Castle.  Along the way, a street musician playing a violin and a bride and groom dancing, twirling around, to a classical tune and a background that looked like a movie set.  Speaking of movie set, do you recall ‘The DaVinci Code’?  I turned around to see St Angelo Castle and there is the statue in the movie giving Tom Hank’s the next clue.

We walked across the St Angelo Bridge (for pedestrian’s only), looking at the river, the castle, the people and the magnificent statues.  It is undoubtedly, the most beautiful bridge in Rome, with its statues of angels along both sides.  Originally, the Aelian Bridge, was completed in 134 AD by Roman Emperor Hadrian, to span the Tiber from city center to his newly constructed mausoleum, now the towering Castle St Angelo.

I recall the Piazza Navona being particularly appealing so I mapped us there.  On our way, we walked through these narrow, charming streets.  We stopped at this little bistro for a croissant and cappuccino.  Coronari Bistro was a delightful establishment tucked into a corner of this shadowed street.  We enjoyed sipping our hot drinks and thanked the two young men for their hospitality.  Maybe a 10 minute walk, we arrived in the Piazza.  It’s a very large, historical piazza in the center of Rome.  It’s famous for several art masterpieces (3 glorious fountains) by well-known artists such as Bernini and Borromini, which make it one of the most important Baroque squares in the world.  Also off the Piazza is St Agnes Church.  Agnes was a martyr at age 12 and is considered a patron saint in the Catholic Church.  The church interior was striking.  The dome had windows that allow light to enter the sanctuary with dramatic impact.

Next stop, the Pantheon.  Just a short 10 minute walk from the Piazza.  We rounded a corner and the area around the Pantheon was full of tourists.  The Pantheon is a former Roman temple and since 609 AD, a Catholic Church on the site of an earlier temple commissioned by Marcus Agrippa during the reign of Augustus.  It was rebuilt by the emperor Hadrian and probably dedicated in 126 AD.  I recall the inside features a rotunda with a massive domed ceiling and opening in the top that allowed light and rain to enter.  We left and walked to the Trevi Fountain.  Also a very popular attraction so no surprise, you could see a river of people heading that direction.  We jumped in, of course, you can’t miss the Trevi Fountain.  I was anxious to see it because last time we were here, it was undergoing some serious restoration and much of it was covered by scaffolding.  Suddenly, there it was, big and beautiful.  Known as one of the most stunning fountains in the world, but there is a lot more than just beauty.  Though it was one of the 1,352 fountains in 4th century Rome, the Trevi Fountain has always stood out from the rest.  It’s one of the oldest water sources in Rome and named in honor of a young Roman girl who led thirsty soldiers to the source of the spring to drink.  The fountain was built at the end point of the aqueduct, at the junction of three roads (the three street fountain).  The fountain stands a massive 85 feet tall and almost 65 feet wide.  Water is pumped from multiple sources but now recycled (2.8 million cubic feet of water every day).  People anxiously await their turn to toss a coin over their shoulder (1 coin, you’ll visit again).

We decided to find a nice place for lunch before we continue our tour.  Instead of a restaurant in one of the main piazza’s, we found a lovely outdoor restaurant on a side street, not far from the Trevi.  The wait staff was fun and attentive.  Bob ordered some house, red wine thinking he ordered a glass but ended up with a liter.  We both had a pasta dish that were exceptionally delicious.  

As we walked throughout Rome today, we remembered the public drinking fountains.  Rome is blessed with more than 2,500 drinking fountains, known as nasoni, which provide residents and visitors with free fresh water year round. It was introduced in the 1870’s and still in use today.  The water is perfectly safe for drinking as it comes from the aqueducts that provide water to houses.

Time for Karen’s walking tour to continue.  We headed towards the Victor Emmanuel Monument (War Memorial).  If we climb all those steps, we should get a great view of the center of Rome.  It is a huge and amazing monument to those fallen in war.  Two guards standing watch next to a wreath and eternal flame.  We climbed and climbed and finally reached the area with a view.  Off the backside of the monument, you can see The Colosseum and The Forum.  The streets were full of people enjoying their day in Rome.  Unfortunately, we knew the time prevented us from exploring much more.  We left Victor Emmanuel Memorial and started to stroll back towards St Peter’s.  When we saw a cathedral, we would go inside.  Each and every one unique in it’s own way.  We eventually crossed the Bridge of Angel’s, walked back through St Peter’s Square and to the train station.  Just a short time later, the Express Train arrived and we boarded.  It was a pleasant ride back to Civitavecchia as we watched out the window, enjoying the scenery.  We arrived at the port, boarded the ship and soon we were on the move to the next port.  The ocean is calm and the sun is golden as it set beyond the sea.

We talked about everything we saw in just a short period of time.  I checked to see how far we walked and it was 8.37 miles.   It made me very happy when Bob stopped me in the street today and said it’s been the best day ever!  It made my day to know ‘Karen’s walking tour of Rome’ was a success!

Ciao Italy!  It has been a pleasure exploring so many areas of your country in the past week.  Arrivederci – until we meeting again!